Jul 10, 2014 I've done quite a few '75-'80 Ford Granada/Mercury Monarch front disc brake swaps on early Mustangs. They have a very similar key, spring and anti-rattle clip arrangement as the Dentside F100/F150 front discs so, I'm pretty familiar with how they go. Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip Assortment| 26210| Top View Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip. From high-quality materials to support the inboard brake pads on disc brakes. Steel construction; Direct fit for a trouble-free replacement; Easy to install.
Hillcountryflt wrote:Thanks ultra-ranger. Boy did I have this wrong. I've done quite a few '75-'80 Ford Granada/Mercury Monarch front disc brake swaps on early Mustangs. They have a very similar key, spring and anti-rattle clip arrangement as the Dentside F100/F150 front discs so, I'm pretty familiar with how they go together. Now that you know where the pieces go, it should be a lot less frustrating to finish out the assembly.
Before you put the caliper on the anchor bracket, you need to coat the machined slides of the caliper so that the caliper will be free to move on the mounts as the pads wear down. If it's not lubricated, the caliper can stick/seize on the slides.
However, don't use petroleum based lubricants. It can come off the slides and get on the dust boots of the calipers. This will deteriorate the boots.
A very good product designed to use for this is Sil-Glyde. Its silicone based.
You can get it at NAPA.
Caliper Guide Pins If the caliper is not free to move, the culprit might be bent or binding mounting pins. Even if guide pins are not damaged, swollen or hardened guide seals or lack of lubrication may cause the caliper to bind resulting uneven pad wear. Always inspect all mounting surfaces and hardware for corrosion, wear or misalignment.
Replace all mounting hardware and install a replacement caliper using the proper caliper lubricant. Abutment Clips Abutment clips reside on the caliper bracket lands on most vehicles. They create a uniform surface for the pads to make contact with. Some abutment clips include fingers that hold the pad in place. These are consumable components in a, not only because of rust and wear, but because the anti-rattle features can fatigue over time.
New abutment clips are being used on some new vehicles that help to push the pads back from the rotor to reduce drag and allow for less wear on the pads and rotors. Failing to renew these components as part of a brake job could reduce the life of the brake job and increase comebacks. Caliper Guide Pin Boots Most floating brake parts and use a rubber or plastic insulator or shim around the mounting bolts of the caliper. This sleeve of soft material loses resiliency over its lifetime. This is hastened by the high-temperature environment of the brakes. As materials wear, instead of being round they are flattened by the torque from the brakes into an oval shape that can cause excessive caliper movement.
This can cause noise like rattles and thumps even if the brakes are not applied. Always inspect and replace if necessary any dust boots or grommets that protect caliper bolts or slides. If the soft parts look OK, clean out all the old lubricant and replace with new lubricant.
Unlike steel, soft parts like rubber are sensitive to chemicals. Choosing the right lubricant for these parts is critical to ensuring the integrity of the part. If the caliper boots fail to make a seal with the caliper bracket and bolt, water can be sucked into the cavity as the bracket contracts and cools. Anti-Rattle Clips Heating and cooling cycles can weaken springs and anti-rattle clips. Weak parts can result in excessive caliper/pad movement or binding causing noise and other related problems. This can lead to uneven and premature pad wear, rotor wear and pulling.
On some floating calipers, the most neglected piece of hardware is the clip in the bridge. Shims Insulating the brake pad from the caliper can be done two ways.
The first option is to go the “chemical” route with sprays or paste coatings. This type of noise solution involves coating the back of the pad prior to installation. The coating serves as a layer between the pad and caliper. If your shop uses any of these products, make sure to follow all manufacturer directions on where to apply and what the curing times are.
Not following the directions can mean a comeback. The second solution is a physical that is a sandwich of materials that is staked to the back of the pad. One drawback to shims is “shim migration” or shifting that can negate its insulating abilities. But, automakers and aftermarket parts suppliers are developing an attachment system to alleviate this problem. Some automakers stamp notches and posts that index and stake the shim on the pad. Certain manufacturers of shims use pressure-sensitive adhesives to secure the shim to the backing plate.